Image taken from the article ‘The Art of Carrying Cakes in Cuba’ (1)
Cake is one fundamental pillar of Cuban culture. There is no celebration or friendly gathering without a cake, as it quite literally is a national right. Yes, even the Cuban government subsidies cakes in special occasions such us children’s birthdays, weddings, Quinces (Sweet 15s) and International Women’s Day . As well, cakes are directly associated with Santería celebrations as they are a common offering to the Saint/ Orisha. For instance you would get a red cake for Santa Bárbara (Changó) or a golden yellow cake for La Caridad del Cobre (Oshún), as those are their representative colours. I have been fascinated with this tradition since I was a little girl, not only because I have a sweet tooth but also because Cuban cakes are one of a kind art pieces.
Cristina is a Madrid based Cuban cake-maker who has been baking for more than 30 years. She emigrated to Spain 20 years ago and since then has been making cakes for the Cuban diaspora all over the city. I came down to her house (where she bakes) to have a chat with her and catch a glimpse of the process of making a Cuban cake.
This is a translated version of our encounter:
Me: ‘So, How did you start making cakes ?’
Cristina : ‘Well, it was by chance, to be honest. Because I studied something else, nothing to do with this. I started back in Cuba, but it was more out of necessity than anything else. I liked it, so I actually started it completely self-taught’.
Me: ‘Oh , Really? What did you study ?’
Cristina: ‘I actually studied Fine Art. I even took the entrance exam for San Alejandro Academy of Fine Arts in Havana. But the situation was quite complicated in Cuba back then…What to do?’
Me: ‘Why do you think sweets are so important in Cuban culture ?’
Cristina : ‘I think because it is very much associated with parties, reunions, family and community . I think cakes are extremely important in Cuba.’
Me: ‘What do you feel is the difference between Cuba and Spain in regards to cake ?’
Cristina : ‘We celebrate everything. Literally everything. For us everything is a reason to make a cake, and make a party out of that. Spanish people, to my regard, we could say that they are a bit more traditional or conservative, they prefer other things. I have friends here who tell me “But, Do you eat cake every day ?” and I say “yes!”, you can find a reason to eat a cake any day. I think for us is just one other excuse to get together and celebrate life.’
Cristina : ‘Also, here they don’t work with meringue. I work with Italian meringue. It’s very delicate, specially balancing the syrup. Some people stop beating the meringue too early. You must beat it consistently for a long time until it becomes solid. You also need to eat it fresh. I used to work in a bakery in Madrid and learnt that one of the reasons they don’t do its because it’s not profitable for mass production, and you don’t want to risk it. That’s why now they use other products with more preservatives and additives which last longer.
As well , for example this cake I’ve just made has less sugar because I didn’t know if the people eating it were going to be Spanish. In Cuba we like things very sweet, the Spanish are no used to that, yet they usually end up liking Cuban cakes once they’ve tried. The first time I made a cake for a Spanish man, for his daughter’s birthday , he said “the cake looks too beautiful, I have never seen anything like this, I cannot cut it!” and I said “well if you don’t cut its going to damage” ;and I didn’t understand why would he say that , to me it was just a cake, until I realised that cakes here in Spain are quite boring. Have you seen wedding cakes here ? They are very plain. I feel like people no longer have the patience maybe, you need to take the time to learn.’
Me: ‘What is the process of making a cake ?’
Cristina : ‘Depends on the size, the type of cake…but I’d say it takes me 4 to 5 hours minimum. It can take me up to 2 or 3 hours to decorate. I’s very laborious.’
Me: ‘And, How do you get inspired?’
Cristina: ‘Well, I have been doing it for so many years , so I usually just have an idea in mind and sometimes turns out fine , but there are other times in which it doesn’t and that’s fine. But yeah, I try to plan things ahead in my mind , and other times its spontaneous and I don’t really plan it and see whatever comes out.’
This was the final result. It was a pleasure to witness the process and get to know the artist behind the work in more depth.
It sure tasted good afterwards!
[1] https://www.thevagabondimperative.com/guides/the-fine-art-of-carrying-cakes-in-cuba/